Other than hot chocolate, braises are probably the most satisfying dish to enjoy in winter. Requiring little supervision once the pot is in the oven, braises make for rich, complex preparations that only await a bed of mashed potatoes, polenta, or even rice or pasta, to soak up their flavorful sauces.

Braises, unlike stews, are only partially covered in liquid, and feature larger pieces of meats. Because it is a long and slow cooking process, braising works best with tough cuts of meats that contain a large amount of connective tissue. While braising, these tissues break and release collagen, which naturally thickens the sauce as it turns into gelatin. With the moist-heat method characteristic of braising, the flavor transfer between the meat and the liquid is constant, creating the complexity one comes to expect of braised dishes. Shanks, short ribs, shoulders, butt, and other primal and subprimal cuts of meats, as well as older poultry are perfect for braising. Vegetables like leeks, endives, onions, and root vegetables lend themselves well to white braise — made with white vegetable stock or chicken stock — ICE Chef-Instructor Ted Siegel explains. Classic dishes include Osso Bucco alla Milanese and Coq au Vin.

While most liquids are suited to braising, Siegel says he favors brown veal stock, which has a neutral flavor but is rich in protein, resulting in a rich finish sauce.

"Once the meat is done, braising liquids should be reduced or at least thickened to make a sauce," Siegel says, "by adding a roux or modified cornstarch. You can also puree the vegetables that were in the cooking liquid."

Once the liquid has reduced, butter, foie gras, or even chicken or pork blood can be added to the pan to finish the sauce and make it rich and silky.

Dutch ovens, those sturdy, heavy round or oval pots found in colorful enamels or studious black, are perfect braising utensils, thanks also to their tall sides that, once the pot is covered with a lid, trap in the moisture and prevent the cooking liquid from evaporating. Their heft means that they will heat slowly when in the oven, allowing the meat to rise up in temperature evenly and gently as well. This evenness keeps the cooking liquid at a constant simmer, without letting it boil over.

Vegetables and smaller cuts of meat or fish will fare better in an ovenproof skillet, writes Molly Stevens in All About Braise: The Art of Uncomplicated CookingI. A skillet might have shorter sides, but they should still be taller than the ingredients and able to hold the liquid comfortably.

Most braising recipes indicate ideal cooking temperatures to be between 275°F and 325°F. However, Harold McGee, in On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, states that starting a braise at 200°F and then raising the temperature to 250°F after two hours is ideal. This allows for the collagen of the connective tissues to melt into gelatin, while keeping the drying up of the muscle fibers at a minimum. Stevens explains that this gentle simmer keeps the meat "constantly based in flavorful juices," as the gelatin of the meat melds with the aromatics of the cooking liquid.

McGee's "guidelines for succulent braises and stews" call for the following steps to be followed: If the meat must be cut, it should be into pieces that are at least one inch on each side. The meat should then be seared quickly in a hot pan, to kill surface bacteria and add flavor. The pot containing the meat and chosen liquid, lid ajar, should go into a cold oven that is then turned on to 200°F for two hours, and raised to 250°F after that for another hour. After that time, the meat should be checked every 30 minutes so that it can be removed from the oven as soon as a fork easily gets through the meat. Once out of the oven, the meat should be allowed to cool in the cooking liquid, so that it reabsorbs some of it. The cooking liquid can then be reduced into a sauce, if necessary or desired.

Siegel's formula is to use 16 ounces of liquid for every pound of meat, one or two ounces of mirepoix (finely diced onions, carrots, and celery), and one or two teaspoons of tomato paste. This results in three to four ounces of sauce, and makes enough for two to three people. The tomato paste creates a more intense flavor and deeper flavor. Once the braise is done, he strains and chills the liquid overnight, then skim its fat off. He reheats the meat with the sauce in a 350°F oven for about 20 minutes.

ICE culinary students spend about five days learning the intricacies of braising, which they will then apply throughout the rest of their education. Siegel explains that braising is now a popular technique in restaurant kitchens, because it allows for advance preparation, since braises are best made a day ahead. He traces back the re-appearance of braises on menus to the stockmarket crash of 1987, which forced chefs to "cut costs and explore less expensive cuts of meats."

Braised dishes, such as Osso Bucco, are sometimes garnished with an herb and citrus topping, which will cut through the richness of the dish, Siegel says. His favorite is a twist on the gremolata that includes mint, lemon and orange zests, almonds, and garlic, which he uses on lamb shanks.

— Anne E. McBride